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Bordeaux

 By Nick Hamilton
Everyone who enjoys wine, from the beginner to the collector, knows about Bordeaux. This French region is well known for its amazing dessert wines from Sauternes and Barsac, its excellent dry whites from the Graves and Pessac-Léognan appellations, but its those outstanding long lived reds that make Bordeaux a household name.

Purchasing such long lived and very often expensive wines requires research. The quality of Bordeaux wines can vary enormously from vintage to vintage. Unlike California, the differences are much greater from one year to the other, making it very risky to buy whithout having tasted beforehand. A vintage may be remarkable in the Libournais (St-Emilion and Pomerol) such as 1998, and be average quality in the Médoc. And when you think price might be an indication of higher quality, then comes a long the most expensive vintage in Bordeaux history (1997) that offers simple wines with very little potential. How does one go about selecting fine St-Émilions or Médocs for his or her cellar ?

Step one is to remember that the year of the harvest known as the vintage is of utmost importance. Even when buying wines from reputed chateaux in average years will not guarantee longevity. The quality of the vintage is crucial when it comes to aging potential. You cannot artificially reproduce the natural ripe tannins that mother nature supplies to these wines in a great year.

Secondly you must look at the track record of many of these reputed chateaux. Some are presently under achieving, others are upcoming. The change in ownership and/or management that many domaines have gone through in recent years has obviously influenced the quality of the wine produced at the chateaux. So the one million dollar question is : who's hot and who's not ?

 

Thirdly,( the main concern for most oenophiles), is trying to find those few bargain wines that Bordeaux can offer. We all know by now that the top clarets fetch extremely high prices making most of them unaffordable to the average income consumer. There is no doubt that the effort spent to find those great bottles will reward you. That well crafted Haut-Médoc you purchased for a mere thirty ($30) dollars and aged for ten years in your cellar is now giving you all the complexity and hedonistic pleasure that only mature Bordeaux can deliver. If you wish to repeat (as often as possible) this pleasurable experience, the following information on vintages and producers should help you make the right choices to guarantee the level of quality necessary to satisfy your demanding palates !

Château Pétrus, Pomerol

VINTAGES

2003
A very irregular vintage. Some outstanding wines but also many disappointments. An extremely hot year produced wines with deep color, lots of ripe tannins, great depth, concentration and outstanding aging potential. The producers who picked too early produced wines with bitter and astringent tannins. (93) 

2002
A classic Bordeaux vintage. Well balanced and charming wines that are medium bodied with average aging potential. The wines from the Libournais (St-Emilion and Pomerol) seem lighter and should be enjoyed fairly young. (86) 

2001
The first report was not very promising. A mainly cool and often wet summer did not provide great promise, but a sunny and warm fall changed everything. Difficult to generalize but the overall quality looks very good. Medium to full bodied wines that offer very good aging potential. Dessert wines such as Sauternes and Barsac will offer great concentration and potential. Rating: (89) Dessert wines: (95) 

2000
This is without a doubt the best vintage since 1990 ! An outstanding year that will supply us with many great wines built for the long run. The Médoc wines have great structure and depth assuring a very lengthy future. The wines of the Libournais (St-Émilion and Pomerol) might not be as grand as 1998 but are still very impressive with ripe tannins and great concentration. The drawback is price ! This is the first vintage of the new millennium. The three zeros following the 2 is an automatic price hiker. For this speculative reason most 2000 Bordeaux will demand higher prices than their counterparts from the 99, 98 and 2001 vintages. Rating: 96.

Château Troplong Mondot in St-Émilion

1999
A good vintage but not a great on. The key word here is elegance ! Soft, ripe supple wines offering limited aging potential. In the Médoc the best wines come from the commune of Margaux, but some fine efforts are also available from St-Julien and Pauillac. The districts of St-Émilion and Pomerol have their regular share of very good to outstanding wines. There is no rush here, these wines will reach our markets shortly and since the 2000 vintage has had so many great reviews, the 1999 wines should not fly off the shelves. Prices should remain at futures level and not increase or very little. Rating: (88). 

1998
In 1998 the Libournais has been blessed ! Amazing wines have been produced from Pomerol especially and great ones from St-Émilion and other surrounding satellite appellations. The communal appellation of Pessac-Léognan will also provide us with stunning efforts. This was a year for the Merlot grape. It being an early ripening grape it reached full maturity beating out the late season rains which Cabernet Sauvignon could not escape. The Médoc wines are bit leaner with slightly aggressive tannins. These wines lack some ripe rich fruit extract which makes them a tad austere. Rating: 98 (Libournais) 87 (Médoc). 

1997
Here is one vintage that we must stay away from. Aside from a few exceptions such as Barde Haut, Sociando-Mallet and a few others there are no justifiable reasons to invest in this below average harvest. Most wines are light and offer very little aging potential. Some wines are downright awful, lacking fruit and structure. Many wines display vegetal noses which confirm the lack of ripeness of the grapes at harvest. But what is most disappointing not to say frustrating are the extremely high prices that these wines carry. Some liquor boards are starting to lower prices on many wines but that doesn't make them better wines. The 97 vintage did produce the best dessert wines since 1990. Keep your money for the better bargain 99s. Rating: 85. 

1996
This vintage is the reverse of 1998. The wines of the Libournais are of average quality while in the Médoc especially the northern part that includes the communes of St-Estèphe, Pauillac and St-Julien, has produced remarkable wines that have depth and concentration with lots of firm tannins to ensure great longevity. Some wines are still available but prices are a tad high. It would be wiser t wait for the 99 and 2000 vintages. Rating: 86 (Libournais) 93 (Médoc). 

1995
This vintage is excellent on both sides of the Gironde. The Northern Médoc and the Libournais continue to produce the best wines of Bordeaux. This was the year that the Asian market influenced the Bordeaux trade. The second shipment of 1995 Clarets doubled in price. The wines have good structure, firm yet ripe tannins and great persistency. Their potential is obvious, 10 years is a must to reach their plateau of maturity. Few wines are still available and prices for the top chateaux are high. The best strategy would be to keep your money for the 99 and 2000 upcoming wines. Rating: 93.

 


Château Cos d'Estournel in St-Estèphe

Finally, here is a list of the Who's Hot in the various appellations of Bordeaux. Pay special attention to St-Émilion (this district has been coming up with new wines every year), and the upcoming appellation of Côtes de Castillon. Don't forget that these wines represent the elite of Bordeaux, prices will vary anywhere from $35 to $1,000. a bottle. The wines that offer a (relatively) good quality-price ratio will be identified with an asterisk *.

St-Estèphe
Ch. Cos d'Estournel 
Ch. Montrose 
Ch. Calon-Ségur 

Pauillac 
Ch. d'Armailhac * 
Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste * 
Ch. Lafite-Rothschild 
Ch. Latour 
Ch. Lynch Bages 
Ch. Mouton-Rothschild 
Ch. Pichon-Baron 
Ch. Pichon-Lalande 
Ch. Pontet-Canet * 

St-Julien 
Ch. Branaire * 
Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 
Ch. Gruaud-Larose 
Ch. Léoville-Barton 
Ch. Léoville-Las Cases 
Ch. Léoville-Poyferré 
Ch. Talbot * 

Margaux 
Ch. Brane-Cantenac * 
Ch. Kirwan * 
Ch. Malescot St.-Exupéry * 
Ch. Margaux 
Ch. Giscours * 
Ch. Lascombes * 

Médoc-Haut-Médoc Moulis-Listrac
Ch. Chasse-Spleen * 
Ch. Lanessan * 
Ch. La Tour Carnet 
Ch. Potensac * 
Ch. Sociando-Mallet * 

      Château Beau-Séjour Bécot in St-Émilion

Pessac-Léognan
Ch. Haut-Bailly * 
Ch. Haut-Bergey * 
Ch. Haut-Brion 
Ch. Pape-Clément 
Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion 

St-Émilion
Ch. Angélus 
Ch. Ausone 
Ch. Barde Haut * 
Ch. Beauséjout-Bécot 
Ch. Canon La Gaffelière 
Ch. Bellevue 
Ch. Cheval Blanc 
Ch. Chauvin * 
Clos Dubreuil 
Clos de l'Oratoire 
Ch. Larcis Ducasse * 
Ch. La Cluserie Ch. 
La Gomerie Gracia 
Ch. Grand-Mayne 
Ch. Monbousquet 
Ch. La Mondotte 
Ch. Pavie 
Ch. Pavie Decesse 
Ch. Pavie Macquin 
Ch. Peby Faugères 
Ch. Quinault l'Enclos 
Ch. Rol Valentin 
Ch. Le Tertre Roteboeuf 
Ch. Troplong Mondot 
Ch. Valandraud 

POMEROL
Ch. Clos l'Église 
Ch. l'Évangile 
Ch. l'Église Clinet 
Ch. La Fleur de Gay 
Ch. Gazin 
Ch. Hosanna 
Ch. Lafleur Pétrus 
Ch. Trotanoy 

Côtes de Castillon 
Domaine de l'A * 
Ch. d'Aiguilhe * 
Ch. Brisson * 
Ch. Cap de Faugères * 
Clos l'Église * 
Ch. Veyry *

 

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